Zawieszenie w Scrap Mechanic: sportowe czy terenowe i jak je ustawić

Sport and Off-Road are the same spring at different lengths

This is the part most comparisons get wrong. Sport Suspension and Off-Road Suspension are not a soft version and a hard version. They pull from one shared stiffness ladder with the same 20 settings, and every level of one has exactly the same stiffness range as the matching level of the other.

What separates them is travel. Sport travels 2 blocks. Off-Road travels 3. That is the whole difference in the numbers, and it is why the in game descriptions read the way they do: a longer spring at the same stiffness has more room to move, so it feels bouncier and soaks up bigger drops, while the shorter one feels tighter and packs into less space.

So the choice is about geometry and ride height, not about firmness. If you want a stiff off-road car, build one. Set an Off-Road Suspension to a high stiffness and you get long travel that resists compression. If you want a soft sports car, drop a Sport Suspension to a low setting.

Each type also comes in a version with a bearing built into it. That variant behaves identically as a spring and saves you a part and a connection when the suspension has to steer or drive.

The level table

Every suspension level does one thing: it raises how far up the shared stiffness ladder you are allowed to set the slider.

Level	Settings you can pick	Hardest setting	Upgrade cost
1	5	60000	1
2	7	120000	2
3	10	247500	4
4	14	487500	8
5	20	997500	top level

The full ladder, softest to hardest, is 0, 7500, 20000, 37500, 60000, 87500, 120000, 157500, 200000, 247500, 300000, 357500, 420000, 487500, 560000, 637500, 720000, 807500, 900000 and 997500. A freshly placed suspension starts on the third setting, 20000.

Two things follow from the shape of that ladder.

The first is that the steps get much bigger as you climb. The gap between the two softest settings is 7500. The gap between the two hardest is 97500. A level 1 suspension owns a quarter of the settings but only the bottom sixteenth of the stiffness range, so it is easy to tune finely and impossible to make genuinely stiff.

The second is that the upgrade cost doubles at every step while the stiffness gain does not. Level 1 to level 2 costs 1 and roughly doubles your ceiling. Level 4 to level 5 costs 8 and roughly doubles it again, but by then you are already at 487500, which holds up most builds. If component parts are tight, stopping at level 3 or 4 is a defensible choice.

The parts also get tougher as they go up. Durability runs 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 across the five levels, so a level 5 suspension survives more punishment than a level 1 even at the same stiffness setting.

What a suspension costs to build

A level 1 unit of either type is the same bill: 20 Metal Block Level 1, 1 Component Kit and 2 Crude Oil, 10 seconds at the Craftbot.

The versions with a bearing built in are made from a finished suspension: 1 Sport Suspension Level 1 plus 1 Bearing, again 10 seconds. Off-Road works the same way. Those two are also the ones on the hideout trade list, the sport one for 1 Caged Farmer and the off-road one for 2, which is often the cheaper route if you are short on Component Kits rather than on farmers.

Four corners of a car is 80 Metal Block Level 1, 4 Component Kits and 8 Crude Oil before you add wheels, so suspension is one of the earlier things Component Kits get spent on.

How to actually mount it

Everything below is a suggestion. The game does not require any particular layout, and half the fun is finding your own. These are the shapes that work reliably.

Straight mount

Bolt the suspension to the chassis, put a bearing on its end, put a wheel on the bearing. Nothing else.

It works, it is two parts per corner, and it is the right answer for a first car. The weakness is that the wheel moves straight up and down relative to the suspension’s own axis, so if the suspension is mounted at an angle the wheel leans as it compresses.

Trailing arm

Run a bearing on the chassis, hang an arm off it pointing backward, put the wheel at the end of the arm, and connect a suspension between the chassis and a point partway along that arm.

The wheel swings on an arc instead of sliding, which keeps it upright and gives a much more stable ride at speed. This is the layout most survival trucks end up using because it tolerates rough ground and does not need precise alignment.

Double wishbone

Two arms per corner, an upper and a lower, each on its own chassis bearing, with the wheel hub held between their outer ends. The suspension pushes on the lower arm.

It is the best looking and the most work. Get the two arms the same length and the wheel stays vertical through the whole travel. Make the upper arm shorter and the wheel leans inward as it compresses, which some builders like for cornering. This is where an Off-Road unit’s extra block of travel pays off, because the arms need room to swing.

Choosing a stiffness setting

Start soft and climb. Drive the vehicle over the roughest ground you plan to use, and raise the setting one step at a time until the suspension stops bottoming out under its own weight. Then stop. A spring that is stiffer than it needs to be transmits every bump into the chassis and makes the vehicle skip rather than grip.

Heavier builds want more, obviously. A cart carrying full chests needs a much higher setting than the same cart empty, which is a good reason to leave a bit of headroom rather than tuning at the exact weight you happen to be at.

Suspension questions

Which is better, Sport or Off-Road suspension?

Neither is stronger. They share one stiffness ladder and the same five levels, and the only difference in their numbers is travel: 2 blocks for Sport and 3 for Off-Road. Choose Off-Road when you want more wheel movement and have room for it, and Sport when the corner is tight or you want the vehicle to sit lower.

What does upgrading suspension actually do?

It unlocks more of the stiffness ladder. Level 1 lets you pick between 5 settings up to 60000. Level 5 opens all 20 settings up to 997500. It does not change travel, which is fixed by the type, and it does not make the spring softer at the bottom, because every level starts at the same softest setting.

How much does the full upgrade path cost?

1, then 2, then 4, then 8, so 15 upgrade charges to take one suspension from level 1 to level 5. Four corners of a vehicle is four times that.

Should I use the suspension with a bearing built in?

If the corner needs to steer or drive, yes. It behaves the same as the plain version as a spring, and it saves a part and a connection. It costs a finished suspension plus a Bearing, so it is never cheaper in materials, only in build complexity.

Why does my car still flip over?

Suspension stiffness is rarely the cause. Flipping comes from a high centre of mass and a narrow track. Move heavy parts such as engines, fuel and chests as low as you can, widen the wheelbase, and only then look at the spring setting. A softer setting also lets the body roll further in a turn, so if the car flips in corners specifically, try one step firmer.